Cave formation near Pulpit Rock

Continuing to build upon the past, both the recent and far, descent was made upon a section of central Berkshire County once known as the Sikes District. The name (like many old geographic features) is taken from the surname of a family once common to the area. The prominent geologic feature of the area is Pulpit Rock (yet another) and a visit was made earlier this year to meet with the owners and discuss the past in regards to their own farmland. Another feature somewhere in the area is quarry from which stone was used to build a couple local churches.

On this trip an old comrade from past excursions, Mr. Tom Hoffman of Washington, joined in for the hike up the old mountain road and on in to Pulpit Rock. A large ravine near this rock contains several small caves and probably exhibits enough characteristics to be classed as what speleologist call pseudo-karst. The area as a whole is part of the Dalton Formation with feldspathic quartzite (at Pulpit Rock) and a more schistose variety at the nearby ravine and caves.

After a thorough look at caves and pulpit, a hike was made out in the direction of the old mountain road following the general topography that drains into the cave ravine. This brought us out to the woods road at a elevation higher than where the bushwhack in to Pulpit Rock began. This area was once where the Sikes (later: Sykes) families once settled. The local mountain once bore the name "Rock Mountain" and even Herman Melville spent a year during his teens teaching at the Sikes District School.

Starting our descent, we were greeted by a carefully constructed drainage channel under the road hand crafted from native rock. Farther into the woods lay a modest size quarry probably a source of rock used for projects in the immediate area. Several hundred feet farther down the mountainside, a brief stop at Sikes Cave - a talus cave - then a return to our car already contemplating our next adventure into the old Sikes District.

Onward to Essex!

The Great Frog Boulder - circa 1900

With October comes the annual trek on up into Essex County. With a bountiful list of sites and topics to cover, I headed on up by starting off with my usual route - the Mohawk Trail.

At least every other year (lately: every year) I put some time into Lynn and surrounding towns, this day taking me back to the great urban park Lynn Woods. Some years back I first visited the Great Frog Boulder (once known as the Great Dwarf Rock) but never took in the perspective of a frog. A different day and a different angle brought out the (somewhat) crude resemblance to a frog crouching. Even more astounding was the circumference of this great boulder at almost 120 feet making it amongst the most 'worthy' in Massachusetts. It might be worth mentioning at this point that large glacial erratics (indeed: erratics in general) are quite common to this part of the State.

After finishing up at the Frog I moved on to the Wolf Pits, ancient relics from the past. These are a couple stone lined pits whose purpose (as the name suggests) were to capture wolves during the colonial era. Some pipe remains from years past when it was there to protect the more modern day explorer from falling in.

South Peabody was my next destination where I was surprised to find in recent years that a thriving quarrying operation had once operated. Indeed, this whole area was explored by the Essex Institute around the middle of the nineteenth century where various rocks and caves are listed amongst their writings. I did find a few old quarry sites but the usual case prevailed where urban sprawl has mostly taken over the area. Most interesting was a piece of conservation land that survived. Within its boundaries were a huge mass of glacial boulders including one gigantic rock of the perched/'balanced' type.

Further up the coast, on one of the many beaches, I had wanted to look into the site of an old postcard called the Sentinel. However, after much driving around the neighborhood, I never did come up with access to the beach. Later that night, a Gloucester source was able to fill me in and a future visit will follow.

Finally arriving in Gloucester, where I was to stay the next three nights, I took in Mount Ann. Having read about this mountain for many years, it was great to finally see it in person. It is topped by several somewhat flat rocky outcrops. Erratics abound including one ancient inscription: 1896. Two other huge boulders were also seen off in the woods on both the journey in - and out.

Day Two: This day was planned to meet up with a renown local authority on historical sites in Newbury: Dick C. I decided to incorporate a couple of visits while winding my way northwesterly and the first stop was Ipswich.

Ipswich has the most 'celebrated' example of Devil's footprints in Massachusetts. Along with that comes the story of preacher George Whitefield throwing the Devil off the nearby church after a struggle thus explaining the origin of the footprint. The print featured is marked within a painted circle and is a shallow incised marking. I have always thought (certainly individual opinions will vary) this to one the weakest examples of these features as it only very vaguely resembles a human print. There are also those that look to be cloven hoof prints. A pretty good search of the rocky outcrop did bring up lesser foot-like formations but the real treasure was finding a good example from the cloven hoof variety.

Moving on up to Rowley I got a look at one of the many rocks used by the aforementioned George Whitefield for a sermon. This Pulpit Rock is a long ledgy outcrop pressed into service when the former church adjacent to the site could not hold the throng of individuals showing up to hear Whitefield preach.

Before leaving town I looked into what I expected to be the former site of Sunset Rock. I was under the impression it had been destroyed for the remaking of a local road intersection. Further investigation revealed what really happened was the rock got developed - built on - so now it is closed off to public access.

Haystack Boulder

On up into Newbury I dropped in once again on Haystack Boulder and one simply called "near Haystack Boulder". Both these large erratics were feature in an early 1900's geologic treatise on Essex County by John Henry Sears. Later on I did confirm with my local expert one known as the Ordway Boulder is also supposed to exist in this area.

The purpose of meeting Dick was to focus on two sites I had no luck in definitely identifying on two previous visits to the area. First up was Gerrish Rock which I imagined to be one of several large glacial boulders lying near a local river. How wrong I was! Reaching river's edge just prior to low tide, Dick pointed out the very top of a rock just starting to show itself above water. As we watched for the next fifteen minutes more and more of Gerrish Rock would slowly emerge. Changing positions on the river's shoreline we were able to see a large portion of the rock would remain just under water. Perhaps a lower low tide might bring it forth.

Dick and I then relocated our cars a bit where we had to tramp over hill and through marshes to see the local Balance Rock. Of course it would not be much of a rock without a story! This one has pirate treasure buried nearby and the rock marked with a letter - or arrow of sorts - that was to help relocate that treasure. Upon finishing our day's adventure, Dick was most generous and helpful in providing additional information to pursue other sites in the future.

I awoke to the rains coming down but an optimistic weather forecast had the rains moving out possibly in the early. So treating myself to breakfast at the local Friendly's, I poured over maps and my itinerary to see what might be accomplished even during a moderated rainfall. One self proclaimed "Old Hippie" (and my local expert on a number of topics including the aforementioned Mount Ann) had peaked my curiosity during a social meeting the previous evening. Asking me how much I had seen of the local quarrying operations I had to confess very little. Although most think fish when Gloucester comes to mind, right in there (and first on my list!) is rocks - as in a once thriving quarrying industry. So setting off north, up the western side of Cape Ann, I motored but first making a stop in the Goose Cove area.

Day Three: I awoke to the rains coming down but an optimistic weather forecast had the rains moving out possibly in the early. So treating myself to breakfast at the local Friendly's, I poured over maps and my itinerary to see what might be accomplished even during a moderated rainfall. One self proclaimed "Old Hippie" (and my local expert on a number of topics including the aforementioned Mount Ann) had peaked my curiosity during a social meeting the previous evening. Asking me how much I had seen of the local quarrying operations I had to confess very little. Although most think fish when Gloucester comes to mind, right in there (and first on my list!) is rocks - as in a once thriving quarrying industry. So setting off north, up the western side of Cape Ann, I motored but first making a stop in the Goose Cove area.

Through a rainy lens: cellar hole marker # 26

Part of the Dogtown lore are rocks inscribed (not personally) by Roger Babson some years back. Usually what one hears are the boulders with the mottoes expressing certain morals or virtues. Also amongst the rocks can be found numbers which labeled the cellar hole locations for past families within Dogtown. Most familiar to the Dogtown traveler are those on the road leading directly from the west to old Dogtown Square. However others existed along the old Dogtown Common Road now partially submerged by Goose Cove Reservoir. I have seen one or two of these in the past but this rainy day proved very productive indeed! Near the reservoir was a rock partially hidden by the brush where long ago someone had done (what appears to be) a 'test' - or preliminary - carving. Part of the rock cut away with several roundish holes inside that area. But within the modern suburban neighborhood, some of Babson's work still remained carved on boulders in modern day front yards.

Turning once again northward and following the coast, a few of the old Lanesville quarries were visible from the road and one or two smaller ones I hike in a short distance to view. A brief stop ensued at Halibut Point where one can find a park and quarry accessible to the public. Here the trip turned southward only to stop for a brief glimpse of the Cathedral Rock area (much explored in the past) and stopping at the Granite Pier to give a token look at the coastline for Profile Rock, Devil's Den, and Rockport's Oldest Inhabitant (profile formation) which I've done on several past occasions without success. In this area is a keystone bridge but leading to other old quarries now off limits as part of Rockport's water supply.

Coming down the coast just as low tide was arriving, I made visits to Long Beach to match rocks from an old postcard and Good Harbor Beach where the Viking's Daughter, another profile formation, once resided. Either it no longer exists or has been hidden away by change as I did not observe her. This particular low tide was far enough out for me to get a good view on a certain section of Bass Rocks I have not been able to observe in the past. Exposed for my eyes were an "Old Man" and a minor cave formation. Farther down the coast, an old favorite in the George Washington profile and a confirmation on the site from an old postcard: Money Rock.

Rayne Adams boulder

As I was chowing down my favorite local pizza (now mid afternoon) the rain mostly stopped and even a bit of blue sky and sun began to come out. Deciding to 'go for it' I headed off for my traditional Dogtown hike trying to incorporate some previously unseen areas and some old favorites. So going north from the Dogtown Road I eventually ended up quite near to earlier in the day by Goose Cove Reservoir. I hoped to find more cellar hole markers on the other side of the reservoir but on this trek only one, along with the Rayne Adams boulder, was seen. Eventually swinging south by Abram Wharf's old homestead and Granny Day's Swamp, I arrived in Dogtown Square. Near here I revisited the motto "If work stops values decay" and tried to match the Pearce cellar hole #23 (rock seems to be missing) to an old postcard of the same. As the day was waning, I headed back out and visited the "Never try never win" and Jas Merry rocks where one marks the 'first attack' by a bull and another nearby where he died.

Day Four: Before leaving Cape Ann, one more stop was in order: Red Rocks. This is the local name for a section of Harvey Mountain, diagonally across Rt. 128 from Mount Ann, and once all considered part of Thompson Mountain. This is the favorite local area for rock climbing and well deserved. I climbed to the summit area after passing one giant perched erratic (circumference in excess of 60 feet) and an obvious ledge used by climbers. The summit afforded a worthwhile view all the way to the ocean along with numerous erratics and, if one were to use a bit of imagination, some of those old 'footprint' formations. Rounding the summit and coming off the opposite side, I got to view an even more spectacular set of climbing ledges than passed on the way in.

Boulder along the Bay Circuit Path

Turning my attention more westward, Cape Ann was finally left behind in favor of Andover. Here, it was decided, to seek out three different conservation properties before making the trip home. What was taken in between those properties included a former Native American soapstone quarry, giant erratic, Bay Circuit Trail, Sunset Rock, and Indian Ridge - a large esker.

With the coming of October I am now compelled to focus on a handful of goals to finish out the season. Most known I usually take the winter to 'hibernate'. Since late winter of earlier this year, I've had a map. A map listing some rather interesting geologic (and historic) sites out amongst the tract once known as Brookfield. In the early history of Massachusetts this was a huge piece of territory and the westernmost settlement after the coastal areas. Now - like so many of the lands - it has been subdivided into a number of towns.

But with my list and map along I set out to work a couple of the sites with some ledges up first. Somewhere in the vicinity of these ledges was a Native American rock shelter/cave, home to the last of their kind in town.

The ledges were found without significant trouble although the exploration was a bit difficult moving along their mid section with cliffs above me and broken talus bordered by a bog below. When finished I made my way through a chimney to the top where I was rewarded with some spectacular 180 degree views. Noticing the map listed "Cat Rocks" nearby, I hiked on over to find some smaller ledges, probably the kind that long ago were the abode to wildcats.

At this point the trip began to take somewhat of a turn. I hiked back across the top of the high ledges as the map listed the Indian cave to the north of these. Upon arriving in the area I saw a complete lack of any rock exposures and what few words with the map could be interpreted as the cave was down at the ledges. So I revisited the base of the ledges to find a fair sized talus cave and was somewhat (but not entirely) content this might be the site.

The Rock House - early 1900's postcard

It was decided to leave the rest of the map - and list - for future explorations and take the scenic route back to western Massachusetts. This allowed me to stop in at the Rock House Reservation in West Brookfield which has a huge, bona fide Indian rock shelter.

Upon the return home, further research revealed the Indian cave originally sought was not at the ledges and the map was somewhat in error. Additionally some of the information (including place names) were ambiguous. So next time - the Cave!

Devil's Pulpit and Cave

The goals on this trip were to find another access point, and to do a bit of good old reconnaissance. The site was once again the marvelous rock features within the Connecticut River Valley and was once known during the 1800's as a natural 'park'. Although I now have dozens of trips behind me when it comes to this area, its uniqueness cannot be understated. No where else in Massachusetts is so much incorporated into one area.

With that said, entrance to this section of the former 'park' was made by way of Mitchell Hill. This is one of many archaic names now long forgotten by both the modern generation and even the local residents. Making my way up the remains of a past mountain road, that once saw many a horse and carriage, I found suitable parking.

When the area was written about some 140 years earlier, the writer was very eloquent in painting the landscape with many a quaint term. One such description used was 'shelves' to describe the many ledges of rocks one encounters while ascending and roaming about the mountainside. Indeed these shelves diverge, converge, and disappear altogether.

My ascent was made steeply on a slope, stumbling upon the small pieces of arkose and conglomerate. On reaching my first plateau backed by a conglomerate 'shelf', it was time for the exploration to begin. Back and forth - weaving from one level to another - I finally stumbled into a 'devil's pulpit' formation with a cave! This shelf yielded many more interesting formations before merging into the main ledge once know as "The Home of the Rocks".

Right about at this point is the glorious Grand Porch, a sort of gigantic open faced shelter that is open on one side with its disintegrated remains forming small talus caves. By retreating along the direction I took, but upon a higher shelf, I took in a number of bear's dens and the area once called Titan's Pasture, a passing remembrance to the ancient Gods of past civilizations. It is not the only such recognition as we also have archaic references to Titan's Quarry, and the Titan's Dooryard.

But at Titan's Pasture is an interesting cave, hidden up in the ledges, with entrance gained only by climbing. This cave is another in a series formed in a manner described by speleologists as gravity slide or gravity assisted. Obviously the action of frost (hence: frost action) plays a part in 'quarrying' these large masses of rock from their parent ledge. But within this cave I was pleasantly surprised to see a bat. A healthy bat no less, free from the dreaded White Nose Syndrome (WNS) that has been ravaging their kind. Fecal matter indicates possibly more than one might use this as their hibernaculum.

Upon the exiting of Cave at Titan's Pasture, a methodical retreat was made down the mountainside checking shelf after shelf to more or less tie the exploration - past and present - all together.

That time of the year again - the South Shore adventure and a chance to work most of the Plymouth - and some of the Norfolk county areas.

Traditional site of John Eliot's Pulpit Rock

Day One approach by good old Rt.s 95/128 swinging around the outside of Boston. Landing in West Roxbury ('home' to the state rock: Roxbury Conglomerate) I proceeded to look into a couple of cave formations within. One is the traditional site of John Eliot's pulpit, an early preacher to Native Americans. The second site - like the first - was a split rock formation where the pieces of rock form a crude shelter. So far in my investigations, this is the typical 'cave' in these parts - and these rocks. However, also found in this area a few years back, a small shelter worn out from under a ledge. I believe occasionally used by the homeless.

Before leaving town I took a quick spin through a neighboring town where an early 1900's history mentions a former cave. All built up now, I can only image what might have existed within the area where a few outcrops of puddingstone can still be seen.

Arriving in the glorious Blue Hills, I continued on with a search begun in June of last year. A small, shallow cave by the name of Rattlesnake Den was written about in the very last years of the 1800's. I've theorized where the general area may have been and mapped out a section to investigate. Some fine hiking but no den so I'll give it a go at another time.

A couple of quick sites before setting up camp. To the south of the Blue Hills, a large perched glacial erratic. This was brought to my attention by a reader some years ago around the time I was looking for Squaw Rock in the same town. It may be this rock as one local resident thought, but again it may not. Finishing the day as I swung out towards the shoreline areas was conservation land which brings one within sighting of the Glad Tidings Rock with a couple of legends as to how it got its name.

Day Two began with a early morning walk at the Worlds End property in Hingham. A beautiful piece of property and a section called Rocky Neck which will be worth another visit in the future.

Retiring to a local library, I put in some quality research time before heading down the coast. One of the towns has a history replete with 'devilish' formations, Indian ovens, and a pulpit Rock. I have made several visits over the years always coming away empty handed. But persistence can sometimes pay off and with information gathered on a library visit last year I located their very own Pulpit Rock and a likely possibility for a Devil's Rock with His footprints. Hopefully much more to come out of this town in the future.

Landing back at camp to clean up and eat, I did some light duty by visiting the former site of Great Rock (destroyed) and Turkey Hill: hilltop farm land with views now under the protection of the Trustees of the Reservations. One more library then back to camp for the night.

Pulpit Rock

Day Three: Starting the day out in northern Plymouth County (in the same town where the county's largest glacial erratic lies) I went out to look into the story of a "Devil's Cave" near a major river passing through the area. An old abandoned railroad line provided the access and the 'cave' turned out to be a split rock formation. Other features in the area were Indian campsites, old dams and a factory, as well as a herring run.

Farther south in the land of Bridgewater, I revisited Sachems Rock although my main purpose was to renew an old acquaintance from the immediate area. Apparently they have disappeared but Sachem's, marking an ancient land boundary, still remains. Then on to Minister's Rock with its quaint inscription and a nearby Pulpit Rock.

Slipping briefly over into Bristol County, I connected with the local library to deliver a photo and information on their very own Devil's Footprint. Then on out of town (just barely) to hit another 'cave' attributed to old King Philip. This one is formed by the overlapping of some huge boulders near a hilltop.

Indian/King Philip's Cave

Day Four: The original intention of the South Shore trip some years back was to devote time mostly to the towns of Cohasset, Hingham, Scituate, and even Weymouth. I really had not spent much time in these towns on this trip so as a parting gesture I hiked on in to Wheelwright Park. The park is home to Big and Small Tippling Rock as well as the Devil's Chair. Big Tippling is indeed a worthy boulder at 55 feet in circumference. But its dimensions do diminish a bit underneath as well as on top.

On over to the big event of the day: to meet up with members of a local historical society. The purpose here was to continue on with the search into "Writing Rock". Between the coffee, the crumb cake, and conversation with a number of very learned, very gracious members, much more was gained that information on just one rock. Apparently the rock had symbols matching some on the more famous Dighton Rock and has also been made off with! It's exact location is somewhat unknown.

Before turning the car homeward a brief hike was made into a neighboring town's Town Forest. This also was a continuation of a search started last year for another Devil's Den. It is somewhat conjecture that this devilish den lays in the area (also home to the Garden of the Gods visited last year) but it also may not. Nearby is a section of land known as Rocky Woods and, in the future, I may move my search more towards that direction.

One of the entrances to Great Radium Springs Cave

A regional group of cavers descended upon the central Berkshires for the weekend. I stopped in to say "hello" to the few I might know from ages ago. On the immediate premises was Great Radium Springs Cave which was confirmed as the longest cave in Massachusetts some time ago when two intrepid cavers went through a watery sump connecting sections that were previously visited only through two different entrances. Radium Springs was a nearby spring that produced bottled water and soda during the early parts of the 1900's

The Natural Ice House/Ice Cave

Seems like Fall is beginning to make its way into the Northeast. Some dread it for no other reason than they hate what's behind it - Winter. Personally, it is with out a doubt my favorite time and begins a race to see how much I can get in before Old Man Winter closes my season out.

My objective on this day was a leisurely trip over to the 'far' side of the Quabbin Reservoir. Here in the former Town of Dana (modern day Petersham) I walked beautiful old roads lined by stone walls on my way to a remote hilltop to look over glacial erratics. Many of modest size were present with a good number 'split' by the forces of Nature. One in particular was most interesting as a tree had taken root and grown up by the side of a section of split-off boulder. Upon reaching the top surface of the rock, grew horizontally on the rocky surface before deciding o once more push upward vertically.

There were many stone walls running perpendicular to the main wall of the road that once sectioned off individually pieces of property. Almost no signs of previous habitation could be seen within those boundaries. But in one case a curious stone lined underground chamber did exist.

Upon exiting these woods I drove a short distance further on over to Franklin County. Still much with the realm of Quabbin, I dropped in on the popular Bear's Den, home to a former grist mill, legends of King Philip, and abode to the bears. Although best know for its picturesque falls on the Middle Branch Swift River, it is also home to some interesting speleology. Small caves have developed during the process of weathering out of small sections of the cliffs. Basically two very small caves are able to handle a human but many other "quasi cave" formations show the same forces that created those, are still at working creating future caves.

Returning north to the Mohawk Trail, I visited an access point set up by climbers to visit impressive ledges that also contain fine caves I've examined in past years.

Lastly, I busted the woods through damaged trees and broken rock upheavals to try to relocate the Ice Cave, less than four miles south of the New Hampshire border. Although a previous GPS reading (a device I have mixed feelings for) sent me on a bit of a wild goose chase, eventually it was found. Not much to this 'cave' although local history writes of it as a natural ice house. And cool it was!