(My) History of Caving in Rhode Island

With the relative quite of Winter upon us (at least for this explorer) let's see what topics of interest might be covered at this time. Since there seems be an interest - and following - from the Ocean State, let us look at the history of caving in that State. And yes I'm being serious - for a change.

My roots in caving and history go back a long way now. Just under .... 50 years now. But both developed alongside of one another right from that first cave visit out in the Marble Heart of the Berkshires. And history has always been one of my greatest tools for locating those caves. So starting with perhaps the 'Father' of modern day caving (and one of my influences) and it's history - Clay Perry. Let's see what old Clay had to say on Rhode Island caves. Really - not much. Between two books published in 1939 and 1946 he lists the same four identical entries:

The Spouting Cave - near Newport

Purgatory - west end Sachuset Beach

Hanging Rocks

Pirates' Cave

[Hanging Rocks is an obvious feature in Middletown and I would assume the Pirates' Cave mentioned is the Newport location]

Now if we leave Clay for but a minute I'll flash forward to the late 1990's. By that time I had been exposed to the myths and legends of Rhode Island 'caves' but never really put any effort to investigate further. It was on one cold Winter day I was involved in an engaging instant message discussion with Steve Stokowski, then of the Boston Grotto. Steve had come upon (likely another Grotto member) some pages from a history of an area in northwest Rhode Island. The Wallum Lake area to be exact. In these pages were the the description and pictures of caves in the vicinity of that Lake.

Coon Cave entrance; early 1900s

Coon Cave entrance in more modern times

Now it had been said many times that Little Rhody was the only (or one of two) States that did not have a cave. So greatly excited by the prospect of finding a 'real' cave. The Clay Perry references had never seen much credibility as far as caving went but I had learned by that time the definition of a cave was highly subjective.

Entrance to North Dinosaur Cave

So there were a number of years spent trying to locate a variety of caves in northwest: Coon Cave, Counterfeiters Den (still not located), and Cooper's Den . The search that eventually expanded down to the very southwest sections of the State: Dinosaur Caves, along with minor features Pioneer Caves and Glacier Cave. Once again sifting through the pages of history brought the mention of a cave(s) in the Warwick area and a Pirate Cave down in the Jamestown area.

Entrance to Cooper's Den upper left

It was just before the middle part of the Century's first decade that more and more time was spent down along the ocean. At this point I got my first look at the Hanging Rocks, Purgatory, a bit of the Pirates' Cave, and (from a distance) the rocks of Spouting Cave, also more commonly know as Spouting Rock. It seems some stories persist of this 'formation' (realistically a 'sea-spout') being at least partially destroyed. Everything from the hurricane of '38 to a landowner dynamiting it were the reported causes.

Other sources provided what was to be one of the 'premiere' - but entirely difficult it not dangerous caves to access: a bona fide sea cave in the Narragansett Bay area. It was at this time after countless walks and climbs along the rocky coastlines, a sea approach was considered a serious necessity. So in the summer of 2010 I joined the ranks of kayakers and accessed that sea cave within the Narragansett Bay one early August morning as dawn and low tide coincided. This time period also saw my interest expand into locating sea formed caves, an interest that persists to this day.

Rounding out the 'cave' search were a number of rock shelters and minor features, primarily throughout central to south-western Rhode Island. Some of these were sites that did see Native American use long ago.

So although the preceding doesn't cover every nook and cranny I've stuck my head into, it does provide a summary from which to go forward. Ciao.

1/24/2021: MORE Rhode Caving!

Now being eight years since the original posting on Rhode Island caves, I thought it'd be worthwhile to give a few updates:

Some of the rocky shelters out in central and central-western RI proved to be a worthwhile trip. Speaking of far western, the quite close to the Connecticut line a very small cave (aren't they all?) turned up along the Tippecansett Trail. To the east, a large Native American shelter and many more minor cave formations. The Arcadia Management area seems to be a good area to locate such features. Speaking of Native American shelters, one - recorded in old history - was located in the Ashaway section of Hopkinton.

Tippecansett Cave

Indian Cave of southwest RI

The long lost Counterfeiters Den (mentioned in the classic "Wallum Pond Estates" book) was found by a friend! This is one of those sites that will be kept 'unknow' to but a few because of its vast historical significance.

Kayaking eventually brought many explorations of the coastline where small caves (the largest mentioned above) turned up. Most often, it was something that could not legitimately be called a 'cave' but I'll frequently throw it out there as a 'quasi-cave' formation. Many of these exist in the Narragansett Bay area. Spouting Rock/Cave was visited. Or as close as one might want to take a boat. I still need to get a close-up inspection on Pirates Cave. Conditions never seem to be just right.`

Spouting Cave - off Newport

Sometimes the line between 'a rock' and 'a cave' get blurred and such was the case in one formation southwest of Warwick. Of course, Warwick was known for its Rocky Point 'caves'. Mostly small and marginal at best.

Witch Rock

Old friends

'Aunt Grace' at unknown rock

Old friends: one that I first met about ten years ago at Sachem Rock in East Bridgewater recently renewed contact. At that first meeting, I found out about past relatives, and old photographs, from my home in the Berkshires of western Massachusetts. Several of those old photographs are now part of my own collection.

Recently I was sent a copy of another old photo by the friend showing a Victorian Age relative standing next to her bicycle at a rocky location. It was conjectured that it might be Reynold's Rock (Cheshire) but a trip out there proved it probably wasn't.

I did drop in to the rocks at Balance Rock Park (as past photos showed relatives visiting that site) and was once again unable to match anything with the photograph. Surprising on this visit were the vast number of trees that have fallen since my previous trip. One was a pine over fifty feet tall whose top now lays upon Split Rock, which once boasted its own large tree growing forth from its large namesake crack. Picking my way through downed trees, I eventually landed at Cross Rock.

Cross Rock

The Nutmeg State

Indian Rock

Another November tradition takes me down Connecticut way. Much like last year's trip, I made use of the drive through northwest Connecticut to further my knowledge on sites that were photographed by Winsted photographer F. H. DeMars. Apparently a favorite area of DeMars (and close to his home) was a waterfall, chasm, and associated power plant built at the falls in the late 1800's. With an eye towards assisting DeMars granddaughter in identifying sites on his old glass slides, I was able to access a lower area of the ravine. However, the main chasm (with a still operating hydroelectric facility) may be impossible due to landowner considerations.

The journey eventually landed me down near Waterbury where sections of an old canal/rr line, and in one case a trolley crossing, were investigated. The Barnes Museum in Southington was also visited this day.

On the second day, Indian Rock in southwestern Hartford County was seen.

Rock Heaven

'The Cave': from November 2003

Come early November, a large postcard show is put on each year in Barre, MA. So a chance to not only go ' fishin'g for more antique images, but maybe catch a couple sites out that way. The show did prove to be more successful than usual with a few rare gems coming my way.

Afterwards, a couple sites around Town were hit including 'The Cave' (rare old images of this exist) and its nearby Porcupine Den. The Cave somewhat qualifies for the title of "Victorian Age Attraction" due to it's use way back during that time. A set of initials and dates from 1860 was spotted amongst the rocks. A stop by Indian (Head) Rock provided a splendid view of Mt. Wachusetts and a chance to tidy up the trail that had suffered blow-down in recent times. Along the back roads, the view through leafless trees allowed drive by sightings of many rocky formations including boulders, large rocky outcrops, and a couple 'quasi-cave' formations.

Last Hurrah

With the traditional October Essex County visit, the list of long vacation excursions basically winds down. Unfortunately conditions never allowed for a kayak launch and exploration of the coastline from the sea. However amongst the inclement weather and gale fore winds, some interesting sites were to be visited.

The old lime kiln

Early on the first day, the second oldest lime site in New England (after Newbury, MA) was looked over in Bolton, MA. Conservation land includes a network of trails and the old quarry and lime kiln. The next stop up in Tyngsborough finally culminated a search begun a few years back when I was searching for another rock pulpit used by George Whitefield. The history of this rock turns out to be much more extensive than previous thought as Indian chief Wannalancet spent the final years of his life in the vicinity. Wannalancet at that point in time was staying with Johnathan Tyng and would sit upon this rock. It is now once again marked with a plaque after the previous one had been stolen. My earlier information had the rock near the burial site of Tyng (where Wannalancet is also buried) and indeed the cemetery is a "stone's throw" away. Upon arrival in Cape Ann, two West Gloucester sites were visited: some gigantic boulders at Tompson's Reservation and Mt. Ann.

The Whitefield/Wannalancet Rock

Day Two brought 'iffy' weather so local sites were worked at the Profile Rock, Rowe's Tomb, and Andrews Woods. Some down time was spent out on the rocks at Pigeon Cove and the area of Lanes Cove and it's historic cemetery.

Day Three brought on the rains, although lighter in the morning hours so trips up to Newbury, West Newbury, and Groveland were possible. I finally was able, through two different hikes, to get into the area of rocks history records as the "Nubble Squid" - or, as it has been called in modern times, the Knobble Squid. The location is not overly rocky by Essex County standards, but it is by comparison to the immediate surrounding area, which is strangely lacking in outcrops or erratics.

Cradle Rock: circa 1905

Cradle Rock lies somewhere not too far away but several past attempts to locate it, including a Town Hall visit on this day, still proved unsuccessful. However, a token visit was made to the Stickney Boulder and Great Rock on the Newbury/Newbury town line. Another old lime site - the Devil's Basin- was descended into once I got a sleeping fox to vacate the old pit. The Fourth Day brought fair skies but terrific winds as I shot on down towards Marblehead. A variety of sites were located including possible (but turned out not probable) kayak launch sites. However, it did enable me to do some old fashioned reconnaissance by foot of the coastal rocks. During that time a small sea cave was located and one good kayak launch point eventually found.

Rain once again arrived on day five so some local touring was the order of the day. My final bit of time on the Cape for the year was filled walking a local park with an old hospital (foundations) site, an old well, and a gigantic boulder that had been partially quarried.

Once again ... Essex County!

My arrival into Essex County was by a slightly different route on this occasion. I wanted another look at an old soapstone quarry where diverging opinions exist if there is - or is not - soapstone still present. Certainly I did locate a large number of quarried stones that could be the mineral. But being beyond my limited knowledge of mineralogy, I finally moved on.

The plan was once again to continue with kayaking the coastlines, in particular Cape Ann, so upon arriving on the Cape I set about checking into a local site that would gain me access to the Magnolia section of Gloucester's shoreline. The day was finished up looking into another section of Tompson's Reservation at Sunset Mountain. The mountain is large sections of exposed granite with one perched boulder seen.

Peering into the old Indian Cave

High surf warnings from an off shore hurricane plagued the trip for at least its first half, but I found some land based activities to occupy myself with. On the second day I wandered down into the southern regions of Essex County to look at an old Indian Cave. Nearby, at a major highway intersection, I looked into the possible existence of a large perched boulder photographed many years ago. It was unlikely that with all the modern day construction, including a massive mall, it would still exist. It did not show itself.

The view down into the Swallows Cave entrances

Turning towards the ocean, I reached the shore at Revere and would begin a journey north to check into multiple locations for future kayak launches. I eventually ended up exploring some Audubon property, Swallows Cave, and Castle Rock, as part of my northward trek. I also got down below the Lynn seawall at low tide to see Sliding and Red Rocks. Traveling still further north, I worked the shore areas of Swampscott, Marblehead, and eventually Salem where I found a nifty (future) launch site and a small cave in the boulders along the shore.

Trying a hand at the Balance Rock in Ravenswood Park

Day three began with another check of the surf at Rafes Chasm. With still too much in the way of heavy seas to take on, I retreated for an inspection of Ravenswood Park, a site I had briefly visited only once some years ago. After finishing up in Ravenswood a jaunt down the road into Manchester was made to visit the Coolidge Reservation. Before leaving the area, a final check was made of the nearby launch site (in particular - parking) to prepare the way for the next morning.

Rafes Chasm - from the Ocean

The next three days were basically devoted to straight kayaking adventures along the coastline. The fourth day was started at Magnolia with a short trip down the coast to check over Kettle Cove. The it was back up along the coast past Rafes Chasm, Normans Woe, Normans Woe Rock and across the outer edge of Gloucester harbor to Eastern Point. My return across the Harbor was made a bit more north so I could take in additional stretches of the coast I had previously missed.

With days four and five, I basically finished covering most of the western side of Cape Ann, leaving by way of Lanesville. The trip north - and around Halibut Point - passed by the old quarry at Folly Point and ended out in front of Chapin's Gully. South on the following day, passed Plum Cove, Hodgkins Cove, and Annisquam. On both days many an eroded dike was seen but that is a typical feature of Cape Ann.

The Blackstone Valley. South & North Shore.

With my eye on eventually ending up on the South Shore, a slight detour was made on the first day out into the Blackstone Valley. The goal was to locate Hell (cave) in Purgatory Chasm. I was successful but later on determined this is not what one explorer calls "Damnation Cave" so more to be done here. A very pleasant surprise was the location of Devil's Pulpit within the Chasm. This I missed on a previous visit although His 'Stairs' were found on that trip. But of greater interest is the old postcard of the Devil's Pulpit is not what the park once had a sign on. That sign has since disappeared.

Moving on through the Valley, my next stop was a beehive stone chamber that has finally come into the 'public domain'. Part of a Town park, this has been one of the most studied of all lithic features in New England.

The old Powder House

Moving on into Norfolk County, three sites were next investigated. One would bring a stream access to an island containing Devil's Footprint formations. The stream, alas, was too dried up to even attempt pulling out my smaller kayak. But downstream makes a good access to the Charles River. Something for future consideration. The second stop also brought me very close to the Charles (and another dandy put in location) but to look up the old powder house on Powder House Rock. The final stop before heading to camp out on the South Shore was a small cave formation formed by the splitting of a huge mass of rock not far from the suburbs of Boston.

I returned to my more leisurely vacation mode for the second day looking over coastal locations. In particular, where kayak access might be granted. Part of that day was out at the old Scituate lighthouse. The tide was in but even the gigantic 'Pebble' could be seen sticking above the ocean surf. Later that day, I finally made use of a very small kayak access and my small boat to navigate the Gulf and one of its branches. A portage across a road, and further navigation up a very winding and ever diminishing stream, got me in close enough. Close enough to finally located the Cleft Rock from local history which I have been seeking for around ten years.

Indian Rock

Early the next morning I dropped in on Indian Rock and the nearby old well. More tooting about the coastal areas found 'resident sticker required' to be the norm when it came to parking and accessing the ocean. But early in the afternoon found me in Hingham where smooth access was made to the Harbor. Out there were many islands to explore with a variety of rock to be seen. Farther out I could see the closer of the islands making up the Boston Harbor Park. But I chose to skirt the outer perimeter of World's End and down towards the mouth of the Weir River.

I broke camp and pulled out of the South Shore early morn on the fourth day. A bit to the north, I landed at Squantum to once again look over the rocks - and some territory that had escaped me before. After a surprise find of an old quarry and Miles Standish Monument off in the woods, I worked the rocky confines of a low tide seashore. Somewhere - likely here - the profile of Benjamin Butler once existed in the rocks. Although I would love to confirm that, I fear the very brittle argillites have disintegrated to a point where Ben may have disappeared. Another park near the beginning of Squantum lay along some giant mud flats (tide now out completely. But this small bit of territory had a rich Native American background.

Gigantic boulders of Cape Ann

Late morning finally found me back on Cape Ann. Some woods contain gigantic boulders (some small caves) were up first. After checking in to camp, I explored put in possibilities to Gloucester Harbor but eventually settled for more exploration of the Little and Annisquam Rivers.

Approach to the Devil's Den - by water!

Day five found me once again found me enjoying the site of one of my most favorite spots of all: Pigeon Cove and its rocks. But with 'work' to be done it was time to put the touring kayak into action on the ocean. Heading on down the coast, a variety of rocky areas of the coast were looked over. Shooting the Gap at Straightsmouth Island, The journey south continued passing through Whale and Loblolly Coves. Shortly before reaching Lands End, the turn was made out to sea to catch up with Thatcher Island. From there it was across to the more northerly tip of Straightsmouth Island, down its coast, through the gap again and across Sandy Bay. I wanted one more look at the Devil's Den and came away with significantly better photos than my previous visit in June. After my arrival on shore, with just a bit of time to spare, I shot on over to the old ruins of the former hospital in Rockport.

On sixth - and final day - I once again visited the rocky shore of Pigeon Cove to see the Bathtub and Swimming Place now emerged from the ocean at low tide. Then it was down to Pavilion Beach for a tour of sections of Gloucester Harbor. These included Ten Pound Island, Rocky Neck, Wonson Cove, and down past Niles Beach (Southeast Cove) towards the Eastern Point Lighthouse. An old geology publication mentioned cave formations within this area, and although the sea had 'worked' the rocks pretty good at some areas, there is nothing I would call a cave.