Friday, October 6, 2023

A Return to the South Shore

With Fall all about it seemed appropriate to take to the road once again. Something that unfortunately has been on the wane in recent years. The choice was the South Shore, making base camp down at Wompatuck State Park. Lately, I've billed many of these travels as the Farewell Tour of an aging old man. If I can go half as long as the Rolling Stones, I will consider myself fortunate.

Natived American crossing: Pout Rock

However, on the way to the Shore, I stopped in at Middlesex County to check on a couple cave sites not seen in about a quarter century, First was the Salem Witches (or Witch) Caves. Although just a ledge of tumbled boulders, it has been said it once had small caves that refugees from the witch hysteria in Salem took refuge. My examination found one VERY small 'cave' running parallel to the slope of the ledge. I also checked the access/neighborhood situation to seed one more house had sprung up adjacent to the site since my 1998 visit.

The next stop in town proved more 'interesting' as a small cave known as the Devil's Den (sometimes: Indian Cave) was damaged during construction of a local high school soccer field. Ringed off by a fence, my 'backdoor' approach could only get me to the outcrop containing the cave but not within a visual angle of the cave. I finished off in this town with a first time look at Pout Rock, marking the site of an old Native American fordway (crossing) on Cold Spring Brook.

It was on then to Plymouth County and a look at House Rock. It has been some years since my last visit, and there is a crude trail system running on the property behind the boulder which I availed myself of. Taking the necessary photos of the big rock (said to be the largest in Massachusetts) I then made my way to set up camp.

The old Scituate Lighthouse

On the morning of the second day, I headed down to the old Scituate Lighthouse. It was surrounded by scaffolding and fence as part of a rehabilitation process. This fence even blocked access to a lower section of seawall that is my usual entrance to beach and shoreline. A number of worthy rocks such as the Pebble and Castle Rock can be found just to the NNW of this point at low tide.

King Philip's Rock

So moving on I went farther down the coast, but just inland a bit, to Marshfield. Here is a little known King Philip's Rock for which I have no story other than its name. Although it is upon conservation land, it butts up against a somewhat modern housing development. There is really no trail to it (other than a short one near the property entrance) but it was finally located.

Landing Rock - from an early 1900s postcard

Back up to Scituate, I pulled out the kayak and my new style paddle for a tryout on The Gulf. High tide was rolling in and I could not imagine just how high it would go! Making my way to Landing Rock (past site of baptisms) the water was so high I could not disembark for photos. So it was back to the put-in where the water was way overlapping the shore. Enough for that day!

The Nubian Head Rock. Old Scituate Lighthouse, far distance

Moving on to the third day. I dropped into a neat coffee shop with baked goods down in Scituate. While sitting there looking out over the harbor, I realized low tide was well on its way, and the nearby Nubian Head Rock would be left high and dry. So I set out for a series of photographs despite working with a tripod that had broke the day before. Photographs done, I moved up the coast to the Minot section of town and Pulpit Rock. I got a good chance to photograph this from an almost completely different angle than the last time I was through here. Although I would have liked to take on The Cave/Devil's Den just up the coast, access here is a bit sketchy so I 'beat feet' back towards Minot only stopping for a quick look at the Old Man of the Rocks. A bit indistinct and you have to know just what you're looking for.\

A section of Aunt Betsy's Rock

Not far away I finally got in to get some reasonably decent photos of Aunt Betsy's Rock. Checked out a trail head in the neighborhood for some conservation property (Hubbell Preserve) and returned to Marshfield for a quick trip on their 'rail trail' to The Cave, an abandoned tomb.

Day Four brought things mostly to a close. I broke camp the next morning choosing to drag my aching, aging body back to Western Massachusetts. But before that, I slipped in to the very southern edge of Quincy to get my first look at the Abigail Adams Cairn.

"From this spot, with her son, John Quincy Adams, then a boy of seven, by her side Abigail Adams watched the smoke of burning Charleston, while listening to the guns of Bunker Hill. Saturday, 17 June, 1775."

From here, it was out to Squantum. This somewhat hidden gem has numerous offerings. The sea, a walk to an island, an old slate quarry and numerous sites represented on old postcards. I made my way to what has been called Squaw Rock, although I hear they may be trying to retire that name. But it is always good to visit this site. First up was another cairn dedicated to Myles Standish and Squanto. I looked a bit for the Ben Butler profile (presumably deteriorated by the elements over time), saw what old relics remained from a bygone era, and re-located the old slate quarry. On the way out, I stopped at Moswetuset Hummock.

"The location was the seat of the ruling Moswetuset Sac'hem (Native American chief) Chickatawbut. During the warm season he conducted tribal council here. Members of the Moswetuset (Massachusett) tribe for centuries made the shore of Quincy Bay their seasonal home."

By afternoon the old body was struggling. I treated myself to lunch in Weymouth and then thought I'd take on Jacob's Meadow in Hingham. Unfortunately, my usual access is through preschool property and they ask you NOT to come through during school hours. I am already working on an alternate access. So I retired early to camp, planning to part ways with the South Shore early the next morning.