The Other Cape!

One of the balanced rocks @ Franklin Park - early 1900s postcard

More and more in recent years, I've been known to say aging may be the last, great experiment in one's lifetime. As a bona fide senior I find it sometimes goes well. Other times not! And so it was on a traditional late summer/ fall trip up into Essex County. For the most part it was devoted to Cape Ann, celebrating 20 year ago I first landed at the local campground. But in the end, for whatever reason, the overall trip had to be devoted to a lighter set of activities.

Part of the Ruins. Boulder with Emerson plaque.

My goal on the first day was to put time in at Franklin Park defining the locations of it's many boulders, particularly in the Wilderness section. But first was a social call on the edge of Newton to have coffee with a friend from recent years. By the time I reached Franklin Park, it was a busy Saturday with activities going on. I got in a nice trip to locate someof the boulders, check out possible locations for Sunset Rock, then it was over to the ruins at the Overlook. That about shot the major portion of the day leaving much more to be done in the future. From here it was onward to Cape Ann!

Small sea cave formation around 1888

The winds were blowing a gale on the second day, so further testing on the new kayak was put on hold. I did make the 'tour' around the coastal areas, looking into Lanes Cove, Folly Cove before landing at Halibut Point. A lot of good hiking at Halibut but the pathways going down towards the ocean get to be a bit more strenuous. After finish up at Halibut it was off to one of my favorite all time places: the Atlantic Path of Pigeon Cove. An assortment of rocky formations lie here and I did visit several including Singers Rock and Chapin's Gully. Then a walk along the road just off the rocks (and a quick 'dive' into Andrews Woods) brought me by some rock sculptures upon a private lot. Next in line was the Town of Rockport bustling with tourist activity. I used this visit to locate any possible downtown access points to the ocean. I finished Rockport at the Headlands then it was off to the Magnolia section of Gloucester. Here I explored the Shore Rd area which included the Great Stone Face/Lady of Rock. The day ended at Good Harbor Beach where low tide enabled me to see the passage over to Salt Island and the tiny sea cave opposite that island.

How the old Coggeshall Camp looks today - from the ocean!

Some of the cliffs that line Folly Cove - early 1900s postcard

The morning of my third day was intriguing to say the least. I had a lead of an Indian Rock within the Gloucester boundaries. At one time long ago, it was a big time party spot for the local youngsters. Almost a local legend, it seems no one had been out to visit it in recent years. But with a few directions I made my way into a 'secluded' spot tucked in between sections of neighborhoods. Some development had encroached upon the purported location so it had to be determined if it still might exist! Well, it does not take long for Mother Nature to reclaim land that gets little use. I almost literally had to claw my way through dense overgrowth that was a lot of briers and sumac. By the time I exited this mess, I left disappointed and unsuccessful! But of a more relaxing nature was a cruise out of Lanes Cove, putting the new kayak through it's paces on the open ocean. Sites passed as I head north were the location of old Coggeshall Camp and Folly Cove.

Rocks towards the end of Cressy Beach - including the sea serpent!

Day four brought me off Cape Ann as I planned to do some exploring around Marblehead. I started off in one of their very old cemeteries. Then I left the mainland behind to head over to the Neck. Big time favorite Castle Rock was my destination but I just missed low tide and access to the small sea cave in the area. But I set up and grabbed a number of good photos of the old Rock itself before exiting Town. Back in Gloucester, I used the opportunity to visit Stage Fort Park and it's beaches: Cressy and Half Moon. Before landing back at my campsite I went up the road to Wingaersheek Beach where low tide was prevailing.

Entrance to small cave in Dogtown

On Day #5 I wanted to make one more trip up to a favorite location on the shores of Pigeon Cove. On the way, I visited the Granite Pier, and the Pigeon Cove Breakwater. Then it was back out onto the rocks that I've spent 20 years enjoying. With that behind me I had to make at least one small trip into Dogtown. The choice was the two caves first visited some years back.

Indian Rock - found!

Pulling camp on the morning of the sixth day, it was a decision on "what to do?" before leaving Town. I had been in touch with one of the local people over Indian Rock, with a little more information provided. But did I want to brave the 'forest' that tore me up badly a few days earlier? Ultimately, I said yes and on my way I went. Taking it slowly - and altering my course slightly - once again I was enveloped in sumac and briers. I eventually spied some painted surface and made my way over to it where I was rewarded! Indian Rock at last! It was so completely surrounded by growth you could not get back enough for photo. But signs of the past were present including old beers cans and broken glass - and lots of old paint upon the rock. Extracting myself from a messy situation, I accessed the car, caught Rt 128 out of Town and made my way to the Mohawk Trail and back to the Berkshires.

South Shore Environs.

After several years absence, precipitated by hurricane winds and the difficulties Covid presented, I was finally able to land once again in the South Shore region of the Bay State. Little did I expect that heat and a banner year for bugs would make for a rather challenging situation. BUT there was excitement surrounding this trip: a chance to try out a new modular kayak. One that would herald my return to the ocean for perhaps the first time since 2015!

But before landing in that Land south of Boston, I had some sites to pick up in Sherborn. So dropping off the turnpike in the Framingham area, I wound to the south, arriving at Peter's Hill. Peter's was visited many years ago in a search for the Devil's Cartway. I expanded that search of the Hill, eventually climbing its southern end, coming across its summit area and then down the northern end. Although one site at the bottom - and one up above - provided a 'rift' (or possible 'cartway') in the hillside, neither one really grabbed me as being very pronounced. Other references I have for the area included the Indian Head Quarry, Devil's Oven, and a 'salt-peter' operation. Just over 2 milkes to the SSE of Peter's was some conservation land containing a nifty balance rock - or the Sphinx, as it is sometimes called. My time in Sherborn was finished with some hiking out to King Philip's Overlook above the Charles River. Here the bugs and I battled for supremacy and eventually I had to yield to their superior numbers. I jogged to the north to the area of the Pike (in fact going under it) to search for an Indian Head and Leaning Rock, the latter once visited by Henry David Thoreau. It was mostly a residential neighborhood with no one about. There is a local camp where I was told they could not accept visitors due to Covid (no word on the Indian Head and Leaning Rock). Then it was on to the Wompatuck State Park at Hingham.

Boulder near the weir

The Devil's Cave

The second day, after a long rainy night, took me farther south into explorations of Plymouth County. Included in these rambles were a fish weir and giant boulder, a cave report (nada here), a 'Devil's Cave' (split rock) along an old rail trail, site of a Colonial 'tea party' (tea burning), and searching out a second cave report. I kind of knew from additional information, this second reported cave might really be an old tomb. And it was! Brant Rock was nearby but upon getting over there, I found the tide well 'in' and masking most of the usual shoreline rocks. So I finished this day by going up the coast to Cohasset and looking over any possibility of access to Little Harbor. This has stymied me for many years and still seems to present an unlikely opportunity.

Doherty's Rock

Started off day three by riding out to Hingham Harbor. I kinda knew the tide was far from high, and a quick check confirmed this would not be the best of times for kayak launching. So I rolled down the coast to do some photography work in Scituate. It had been years since seeing some of these rocks so out came the more modern cameras. First was Hatchet Rock followed the Nubian Head Rock at the harbor area. I stopped for a short spell to see if the local walking group might show as their previous day's hike was canceled by the rain. No luck here. So it was off to Doherty's Rock (along the way, I saw the massive Damon's Rock through a back yard) and coffee at the local java bar. By that time, Hingham Harbor had filled to a much higher level and it was time to roll out the touring kayak! A delightful four hours - or so - touring in the bay, visiting the islands, and finally going over to the east side of World's End. The kayak performed as expected and now a new chapter begins in my water exploring adventures!

Conglomerate rock on Hingham Harbor island

On day number 4, the searing heat brought my trip to an eventual end. I went out on the Gulf, along the Scituate-Cohasset border, but being at mid tide, it did present it's problems. Also, the strength in my arms was drawn down from the long outing of the previous day. Even so, I did make it as far as Lion's Head (the likely Buck Rock in the Town's history) before my limp arms returned me to the put in. Unfortunately, Landing Rock, on a side stream, had to be left out on this trip. Bathed in sweat, and arms that could barely gather up the folding kayak, I returned to my campsite to break camp and brave the Boston area traffic home.

The Lion's Head - on the Gulf

Mine all Mine

Another opportunity to join the Western Mass Hilltown Hikers, and 'old' hiking partner Tom, for further explorations in the Town of Chester. Chester has repeatedly provided an abundance of history and geology over my many years. So always great to get back there again. The goals on this trip were the Melvin and Wright Mines.

Approaching from the south, it was a bit of a hike in but our first objective, the Wright Mine, we eventually located after following old roads, crossing a stream and a bit of bushwhacking. Wright was an open cut with some water in the bottom. It could be carefully traversed with the aid of some (slippery) logs. Ascending out the far end provided a mild challenge.

The old Melvin Mine

Making our way further north, a bit of hunting was necessary to bring us to the Melvin Mine. Along the way, a couple filled pits and remnants of other old mining features were encountered. Melvin was a much more spacious open cut who's bottom was mostly covered with a good amount of water. After photos, and exploring what we could, the Hilltown Hikers retraced their route back while Tom and I cut across the countryside. A small quartz quarry was encountered along the way before emerging from the woods and locating our car.

Shadows of Hitchcock

At Titan's Piazza

The year was 2004 when I descended upon the Hadley area to search out formations written about by eminent geologist Edward Hitchcock and others. That trip covered the Mount Holyoke area and Warner Mountain. I hoped to at least partially recreate that trip - and maybe even kayak out into the Connecticut River. But in the end it was shortened by approaching rain.

The Devil's Football/The Magnet as depicted on an early era postcard

However, I did get up to Titan's Piazza with my assemblage of cameras. That was followed by a leisurely drive to Mt. Holyoke's summit and exploration of the exposed rock outcrops. On the way back down, a quick trip was made to the Devil's Football. Or as Hitchcock called it: The Magnet.

I was afforded the opportunity to join an old friend and we both met the Western Mass Hilltown Hikers. Today's hike was to look for signs of quarrying history in Hampden County around the area of the Little River. At least one of these quarries went by the name of the Atwater Quarry with serpentine marble being its specialty. This is also the area of a Native American soapstone site.

The old quarry

A bit of searching along old routes did eventually lead us to a splendid old quarry that was high above the Little River. (Years ago, I had visited a companion quarry across the river to the north and the hiking group took this on after we parted ways that day.) After exploring the aforementioned quarry we attempted to trace the route of transportation line steeply down - and across - the Little River. Bridge abutments still stand marking this route. We also located sites of an old shop and mill once we forded the river.

Abutment to the crossing of the Little River

Mission basically accomplished, we hike back out to our cars and said our goodbyes.

Boulders, boulders everywhere. But not a cave to be!

Earlier in the season I made a somewhat crude attempt at relocating Hunters Cave north of the Greylock Glen area. Things have changed considerably (my memory included) since those days long ago when I last visited. Preparing a bit better I made another stab at it!

This trip relied heavily on GPS coordinates supplied from a list by long ago area explorer Alan R. Plante. The coordinates were located after pushing along trails - some totally overgrown by ground vegetation. Ledges and many boulders were found, none of which I recognized. After giving the area surrounding the coordinates a thorough going over, I aborted in favor of returning on another day. Perhaps without foliage!

Back to Essex

Ancient land boundary

Twenty months is a long time to be away from something that has been my 'old stomping grounds' for a couple decades. Between Covid and late summer medical, that's what happened during 2020. So it was with keen anticipation I took to the road and looked forward to landing on Cape Ann once again.

Small cave formation @ Den Rock

But before that could happen, I wanted to check in at several sites not visted in a VERY long time! First up was an ancient land boundary boulder in northernmost Essex County. I see that over the last dozen years it had lost the picturesque tree that once grew alongside it. On to Den Rock where it once was reported the Devil resided in its trademark fissure in the ledge. Over the years I've picked up couple interesting photos. One definitely showing the well known rock face, the other: unidentified but likely can be traced to this site. Down in the region of the Harold Parker State Forest, I did trace two very old photographs to the Jenkins Boulder (which I had identified from a 2000 photo of my own doing) and visited the old Jenkins soapstone quarry by way of a new access I recently discovered. The day was finished with further testing of the fold-able kayak on the Annisquam River.

Originally labeled as Cape Ann - circa 1880s...

...Today known as the Jenkins Boulder in Andover

Day two turned into a real treat! I was taken on a tour of some difficult to access local sites including quarries and private estates. These are areas I would have never seen without the company of my host and local gardener. I saw several Lanesville area quarries, an old cemetery (where the namesake Lane Family might be found) and estates over in the Annisquam section of town. I got a real lesson on how gardens can work to complement the rocky surfaces that are a typical part of Cape Ann. Along the way I was treated to Sheep Rock and the possible discovery of Tilting Rock. Upon parting ways with my guide, I traveled up and around the top of Cape Ann, stopping at Folly Cove to search out the whale that had washed up there weeks ago.

Tilting Rock as it appeared circa 1880s...

...the likely Tilting Rock as it is today!

The third day took me up to Newbury. I hoped to find possible access to the Parker River from an island on the Great Meadows property. Although this did not prove to be a reality, I took the time to look over several large boulders at that location. Some have said one of them is Gerrish Rock. My very knowledgeable local source took me there years ago to show me Gerrish Rock rising from the Parker at low tide. It's not often I get into Newbury so I went over to the Devil's Basin (old lime pit) along with the Haystack Boulder and another one off in the brush simply identified during the 1890s as 'a glacial erratic boulder of quartz augite diorite' . On the way out of town, my day was cut short with a flat tire . Phooey!

Glacial boulder @ Great Meadows

The Devil's Basin

Day four came and it was time to make my way to one of my most favorite of all places: Pigeon Cove. But first stop was closer to Rockport Center at Old Garden Beach. I had to photograph the large boulder first seen many years ago and told that it had a name: which, of course, I long ago forgot! From there it was on to the Atlantic Path which allows me access to the Atlantic shoreline and many of my favorite rocky formations. Here I was 'reunited' with the 'Meditation Seat', Pulpit Rock/Singers Rock/Dianah's Bath, Chapin's Gully, the Great Gargoyle, and Metoric Stone. Old maps of the coastline list archaic names to many of these places and at some future point I will explore than further. Coming just off the coastline, I looked to see if the site of an old chalybeate spring could be found. From the plant growth, one area looked to be excessively damp, but nothing definite. I then took a quick look at the overgrown Profile Rock and saw that it would eventually need a small cleanup to free it from the dense overgrowth. A bit to the south, I came to the Turtle Mound and old Rockport Hospital ruins. A quarried boulder lay secluded just out of site, buried within the underbrush.

Dianah's Bath - with Singers Rock in the background. Circa 1870s

On day number 5, I left the Cape to travel down to Salem. I'd seen a number of postings on some conservation land in the area known as Salem Woods at Highland Park. I did a quick one hour trip around its perimeter that gave me a good idea of what it offered. Forests, marshes and meadow lands with enough rock outcrops to tell me what might lie beneath. Leaving Salem behind, I took a jaunt roughly northwest for twenty miles to continue on from where I left off the day of the flat tire. This covered the Stickney Boulder, a search for a memorial boulder with plaque (a no show) and ending at Holmes Rock, another old land boundary.

The Stickney Boulder

Holmes Rock

I noticed the return to longer trips proved fatiguing. Either out of shape or just the normal aging process, time will tell. So on the morning of the sixth day, I pulled camp and set a direct route home to the Berkshires.