Monday, September 9, 2019


Long overdue, this journey eventually landed me back in Essex County, with my usual overnight accommodations upon Cape Ann.


Bennett's Rock - early 1900s postcard


Wolf Rocks

However, there were things to do on the ride in. This began at a large lake in Harvard. The purpose was twofold: to get use to traveling with a kayak again. And to give the lake a second look over (previously done 4 years prior) for a couple of historical sites from the golden age of postcards. A little more success on this paddle as Bennet's/Bennett's Rock was located but a definitive match for the Hanging Rock still eluded me. Certainly there are plenty of rocky islands that have been carefully checked out. But they just do not match what I have on several old postcards. On the way in to Cape Ann, a return to a nice pile of several boulders forming Wolf Rocks in northern Middlesex County.


Sliding Rock - circa 1870s

After the first night on the Cape, I began the second day with a quick look at a possible kayak put-in out Ipswich way. Then with low tide approaching, it was southward to Lynn and Swampscott. There was more images to match plus combing Lynn Woods for 'lost' rock formations. Lynn shoreline found me at Sliding Rock (apparently a bit dislocated from its historic images), Red Rock, and The Cradle. Deep in the woods of Lynn Woods, began a long hike through areas south of Walden Pond. Sites visited were Echo Rock, the likely Sugar Loaf Rock, Fox Rock, Halfway Rock, and Union Rock.


The likely Sugar Loaf Rock

Day three brought me back into the Dogtown for some modest investigations starting with the area around Dogtown Square. There's the rocks marking where James Merry was attacked - and later died - by a bull, Granny Day's cellar hole (#25) and nearby well, and a possible site for Flint Rock - marked on an old Dogtown map. After all this it was up Wharf Road to where Abram Wharf once lived at cellar hole #24. Abram ended his own life way back and, in one version of the story, crawled under a rock to carry out this deed. Although we will likely never know the exact spot this took place, a cave-like formation found near his old cellar hole would be one possibility.

I usually make at least one trip circumnavigating Cape Ann on each visits. After finishing up at Dogtown, I moved up the coast to Lanes Cove where part of the time was spent on Essex Greenbelt property. A bit further north the 16 steps carved into a large rock outcrop in the local cemetery. Coming around the northern tip of the Cape, an abbreviated visit was made to the Atlantic Trail. Then one more investigation into a boiling spring but the old image is so indefinite, a positive id would be nearly impossible. Profile Rock was also is this vicinity but starting to overgrow once again. I ended my time in Rockport by checking in at the newly restored Mill Pond, close to the center of town.


The Great Stone Face among the rolling surf

Day Four kicked brought morning rain, the likely remains of an offshore hurricane. Consequently, rough seas were present. But, I investigated the Harbor Loop area near downtown Gloucester before moving southwards to observe the angry seas from the Rafe's Chasm area. From there it was but a short drive to see those seas beating up on the Lady of Rock/Great Stone Face. By afternoon, the rains had ended and we were even treated to a bit of sunshine. This allowed me back up into Rockport where a hike into their Devil's Den took place.


The Devil's Den

On Day Five I wanted to give the old shoulder another test with the kayak. I pulled out of Jones Wharf and made my way up to the Annisquam River and eventually (just barely) out into the Ocean. The seas were still rough from the passing hurricane, so I retreated back to the inland river and shore. Next was following up on a tip of a possible minor cave formation along the Gloucester shore near one of its popular beaches. A bit of hunting (we were around low tide once again) found a chamber hidden away under a massive boulder. What followed was a walk of the backshore to once again see George Washington's profile and search out a couple other old images, including 'Uncle Joe'. However, Joe remains 'lost' if he even still exists.


Uncle Joe - from an early 1900s postcard

The Sixth (and last) Day found me lacking in energy so it was decided to leave town early. I tried a short hike in Fitchburg's Coggshall Park and stopped in Erving to pay me respects to the Hermit of Erving at his final resting place.